2/15/2003

纽约反战游行 New York City Peace Rally

A detailed account of my trip to New York City to stop the war
February 16, 2003



Before

I’ve always described myself as non-political, because I don’t read about current events and I don’t want to get into any political argument with anyone about things I don’t know well about. But maybe my apathy is also because I am too deeply in love with humanity and it hurts just to think about the world we are living in and the lives people are leading to and the suffering and ignorance and the helplessness of individuals. I may not voice my concerns in public but I know I weep in private.

I don’t read news because I don’t want to have other people’s view of the world events. I know I am usually not well-informed enough to take a stand on any issue. Instead, my political views are, if any, purely formed from intuition. In my life I have only been to one demonstration – back while I was in Hong Kong when Chinese government was running tanks in Beijing.

I turned further away from politics after 911 because I did not know how to express my feeling about the war on terrorists. Then last week I joined a local peace march in Ann Arbor, out of curiosity. That was when I first learned that the US was about to be at war with Iraq. Who is Iraq? What did they do to the US during the past year? I must have missed a lot!

By intuition, I love peace because I love people and I love people who love peace. So I have decided that I am against the war.

Wednesday, February 12, 2003

Then when a time came and when Ryan asked me if I wanted to share a ride to New York for the global protest against possible war on Iraq, I decided to go. I decided to drive 700 miles to just be there, to be part of it, to be a witness and to add one small count to the 100,000 expected demonstrators against war. Special thanks for George and Sushil for their moral support of my crazy trip.

Thursday, February 13, 2003

On Thursday we started to plan the trip. From the official website (www.unitedforpeace.org) I found a housing board, with list of New Yorkers willing to provide housing for out-of-state protesters. We contacted some people and received warm replies. I feel so grateful and moved that strangers would share their very crowded places for us to stay. Many thanks to Suzy, Will, John, Diana, John, Mana, Israel, Madelon, Sarah and Lisa for their kind offers and replies. Because of the concern of parking and early arrival hour, we decided to drive overnight Friday night, meet up with Suzy and go directly to the rally in the morning. There was snowstorm forecast and we were warned the prepare 12-14 hours of driving.

8:20 PM, Friday, February 14, 2003, Ann Arbor to New York City

Ryan came from Battle Creek, 77 miles west of Ann Arbor, to join me. We packed my 1985 VW Jetta with water, snacks, and signs, and started the long night’s journey at 8:20 Friday evening. I drove till 3:30 and Ryan took over. I wanted to get some rest so I could be active during the events of the day. Around 5:30 we arrived in New York City. It was too early to bother Suzy, so we decided to find parking in a designated stadium. Without a street map of the city, we drove around and around for an hour until we found the Shea Stadium, but it wasn’t open. Since it was near Flushing Chinatown, we hang around the area for an hour, got some very yummy Chinese bakery, and headed for Suzy’s place in Long Island. She opened the door and welcomed us in when we rang her doorbell.

8:10 AM, Saturday, February 15, 2003, Long Island

Suzy’s real name is Shizuko. She and her family moved from Japan 20 years ago. She is 52 and works in Long Island. Her oldest son is a Honda engineer in Columbus, Ohio. Her second son is in the US Marine and has left for preparation of the war. Her youngest daughter is a psychology student. Her husband moved back to Japan with the company and now she lives in the Long Island house alone, with plenty of rooms. We exchanged several emails before our trip. She was so warm and open, and already treated us like a mother and a good friend. We were not surprised to find her affectionate, caring, loving, considerate, and gracious. I even became friends with her dog Tyler.

9:10 AM, Liberty Train

We left for a nearby train station without much rest. It was 9:10 when we met other members from the Huntington group, a group formed by residents in the area. We got discounted round-trip train tickets and boarded the “liberty” train. There were about 100 people in the group, many of them older people. Political protests were not for young people only! The organizers were very active and excited about the events. Some people walked along the alley and engaged passengers to sing together. I did not know their songs.

10:45 AM, Penn Station

The train arrived at Penn Station around 10:45. Shizuko, Ryan and I left the group and went onto the street by ourselves. I was in New York again! I love this city. I had only visited here briefly twice before, and every time I felt at home. This city always reminds me of Hong Kong, with a darker tone, and somehow more complex, more diverse, more sophisticated, and more engaging. Immediately we were among other protesters. Many people were carrying signs, and dressed warmly. They all looked very active and hopeful, as if going to a festival. We did not know which way to go, so we simply followed the larger of the crowds.



11:10 AM, Public Library

At first there were people here and there walking along with us, and the crowds grew bigger and bigger at every intersection. When we reached the Public Library at 11:10, the steps were already occupied by protesters and there was a big people jam. Police were coming in and moving people off the street to the curbside. A group of veterans, dressed in old army cloth, started chanting, as if they were still in the service. One veteran was sitting in a wheelchair. Their face weathered, their gaze kind, and their banner said “Veterans for Peace”.

The three of us constantly got lost in the crowd. We picked up signs distributed by the organizer and agreed to use the signs to find one another in case of separation. Shizuko got a sign which said, “Support our troops. Bring them home NOW!” Mine was the official sign on a cardboard stick, painted a blue globe with the words “The World Says No To War!” in English and Spanish. We left the library and continued to follow the crowds.



10:25 AM, Third Avenue

The crowds grew thicker and thicker and eventually we were completely surrounded by people. It was exciting! People were full of spirit. They talked aloud to their companions and engaged other people to join the conversations. One person, whose sign was coming lose from the stick, asked in a loud voice, “who’s got any duct tape? I need some to fix my sign.” When some young women sang “We don’t want your dirty war. We don’t want your duct tapes”, some guy added, “We only wanted the duct tapes to fix our signs”. Ryan took out a roll of duct tape from his backpack to fix our signs, and his act generated great laughter and supports.

Ryan wasn’t the only one made good use of the duct tapes. I saw duct tapes everywhere. A lot of people used the tapes to secure their signs, or to make signs. One group of signs had the tape covering mouths of the photos of the government leaders. Some people had tapes all over themselves. One person even had the tape over his own mouth. Later I saw an old lady, wrapped in a plastic cover, secured by duct tapes, telling everyone, “I feel very safe”. And there was a man in gas masks walking rapidly past the crowd.

We were surrounded by colorful signs and the messages were so varied, many very creative and thought provoking. The signs were in many different languages: English, Spanish, French, German, Arabic, Chinese, Korean, Japanese…. and in forms of photographs and cartoons and drawings and flags and banners and buttons, and in shapes of large peaceful birds. Some time when I paused and thought about the meaning in a sign, I felt deep disturbance and sorrow. Those signs against war and the administration infuriated me. Those signs calling for reflection made me think in larger scale. Even the simplest sign “Peace” made me want to weep, for they carried a message so strong, so loving, so compassionate, and so profound.



Unlike the protest in Ann Arbor the week before, the crowd in New York City composed of all kinds of people, people of all races, all ages, all cultural backgrounds, and all walks of life. Among them were young people with pierced noses and lips and pink hair and shaved heads, people in wheelchairs, little babies in strollers, small children on parents’ shoulders, women in elegant black coats, hippies with loose clothing and colorful headbands, black people with intense gaze, Asian girls with quiet smiles, Arabic men with long beard and turbans, middle eastern women with whole face but eyes covered, couples, families, friends, strangers met on the streets…. Not to mention those in costumes and masks. A few people wearing masks of the US leaders and drinking gasoline attracted large crowds, laughs and applauds.

There were always some energetic people starting a chant. They led people to shout in unison, “What do we want? – Peace! – When do we want it? – Now!” Some people yelled so much that they began to lose their voice. Then someone else took over the lead. Sometimes we heard a wave of shouting coming, and everyone started yelling and whistling and shouting and laughing, not knowing what started it. When people were doing things together, I felt warm being among them.

The cops were everywhere, fully equipped with plastic handcuffs, big sticks, and helmets. They were doing their job to prevent people from marching and reaching their destinations. At one point, the police stopped all of those who had wooden sticks on the signs and took the sticks away. Some policemen were chatting among themselves or with the protesters, but most of them were very tense and on guard. We did not like them.

We were walking north on the third avenue, because the police had set up barricade to block us from reaching the first avenue. At first we were walking on the sidewalks, and had to stop at each intersection to let the cross traffic go. Those cars were crazy to want to drive in such dense crowd. Eventually people started to walk on the road, chanting “whose streets? – Out streets!” and formed a massive march that was denied by the city. Yet we failed to persuade the police to let us through when they blocked us.



1:30 PM, First Avenue and 68th Street

We had to walk about 20 blocks before were allowed to turn east onto the Second Avenue, and another four blocks north before turning onto the First Avenue. When we reached the First Avenue, we were on 68th street, 20 blocks away from the assembly location. There we could not move freely. Each block there were barricades setup by the police and we could not go forward. Sometimes I felt we were like caged animals, waiting to be released.

Earlier on Third Avenue Shizuko met a Japanese man and they started walking together. Hiroshi is a professor of economics from Kyoto University and now a visiting professor in Columbia University. He had been to the DC protest a month ago. We parted with him after a while, but a couple of hours later on the First Avenue, we met him again! We went to an overcrowded grocery store and got some pasta. The four of us stood outside the store in the cold and ate our lunch. Everyone felt very good afterward. It was 2:30 PM. During the whole time, I did not talk to Hiroshi very much. I was probably too tired to make new friends. Later I regretted, because from what Shizuko told me, professor Hiroshi had many deep insights about the current affairs we were protesting.



2:50 PM, First Avenue and 63rd Street (?)

It took us another hour to advance one more block to 63rd Street. From there we could see a large screen, broadcasting the events on the stage of the assembly. Occasionally there were people among us carrying stereos and we could catch a few words here and there. Someone set up their own stereo systems on the porch of the building nearby. Still, there were not enough loud speakers around and most of the time we could not hear what was going on. I wish we could advance further, and see more people and hear more things. However, I was impressed that most people around us could still keep their high spirit and tried to listen to the speech attentively whenever possible.



3:30 PM, Second and Third Avenues, 40s and 50s blocks

Around 3:30 Ryan and I decided to split with Shizuko and Hiroshi to look for a restroom. As soon as we left the First Avenue, we could not come back in. We walked down the Second Avenue, hoping to get closer to the UN and see more actions. People on the streets were starting to disperse and leave, but everyone was still very spirited and when seeing other protesters, which was almost constantly, they would cheer to one another. We overheard someone saying “congregating over at the Times Square” and decided to go there instead.

We saw six policemen on horsebacks waiting. On the way to Times Square, there were police barricades at almost every block, and the pedestrian traffic seemed to be allowed in only one-way. The Grand Central Station was full of people waiting to get home. As we approached Times Square, we saw more and more police, getting ready for big actions.



5:00 PM, Times Square

The police action was effective. We were not allowed to stop on the sidewalk to even take pictures as tourists, and were not allowed to go into side streets. We thought about seeing a production of The Producers, but were stopped by police. I then asked them if we could check with the ticket office, and as soon as a policeman saw the big sign I was carrying, he directed me to go around several blocks and get into the street from the other side. I was getting really tired but I still wanted to see action or see the play. Unfortunately the play was sold out.

6:10 PM, Penn Station

Neon lights were flashing everywhere in Times Square. The cops out-numbered the congregating people. We grew tired of being stopped everywhere we went, and decided to go back to Shizuko’s. On our way to the train station, some people asked us about the situation in Times Square, and they wanted to join the action. A group of Costa Ricans saw the Spanish words on my sign and wanted to take pictures with it. On the train we were joined by other protesters going home, and they were still talking about the events of the day, tired but excited.

7:30 PM, Long Island

When we got back to Huntington Station it was 7:30. While waiting for Shizuko to pick us up, we witness a crime—someone drove off a car while the woman owner running and screaming after it. The weather was really cold.

We went to a Chinese restaurant and it was so full that the wait would be over an hour. Then Shizuko took us to a Japanese restaurant where we met the wonderful owner and other people who were working there. We had a delicious meal and exchanged warm memory of the day. Shizuko told us her stories of many past protests. Once she was arrested for protesting against the Narita airport. As we talked and laughed, we grew closer and began to develop real friendship.

Sunday, February 16, 2003, Long Island to I-80 to Michigan

We all had plenty of rest Saturday night and in the morning, we cooked breakfast together and discussed more about current events. Shizuko was growing very fond of us and wanted us to stay. We left her house at 11:10. I drove all the way back to Ann Arbor. On the way back, a snowstorm was developing in Pennsylvania so we had to drive slowly for a long time. We got some local newspapers along the way and shared the stories of protesters around the world. One town had a rally of 75 participants. Another article said that war was possible to be stopped. We were all much encouraged by the news.

9:20 PM, Sunday, February 16, 2003, Ann Arbor

We got back in town around 9:20 PM. After supper, Ryan left to go home.

I called my parents and wanted to tell them about my trip. I did not tell them before I left, because the last time when I talked to my father, he was in favor of a war “because it would help with the economy”. This time I was still too excited about my trip and had to tell them about it. My mother was very surprised to hear about my trip, but much to my relief, she said, “of course we do not want war”. Then she told me that my Bostonian sister and brother-in-law all wanted to have the war, because “Saddam was too bad and we had to fight them.”

Now

I don’t know….

1/18/2003

密西根冰雕展 Plymouth Ice Spectacular, Michigan

2003年一月,来到密西根一年了。生日那天,来到 Plymouth 的国际冰雕展 Plymouth International Ice Spectacular。这是我第一次见到冰雕。

Plymouth 是一个密西根典型的小城市,都是有历史的。市中心的建筑很有风格。这个冰雕展是密西根最大的,持续一个星期。据说 350 吨的冰在此被雕成 200 多个艺术品和展览品,供三十余万人参观。

开始见到的是商业区的小型冰雕,4 尺高,每个店铺门口都有一个,不少是在给商店做广告,很有创意,比如宠物店前是小狗,眼镜铺前是眼镜等。后来到了市中心广场,一些冰雕艺术家和学生在塑造中型大型的冰雕。原来是周末举行的冰雕展。晚上听说还有灯展,可惜我早走了。

from I-275 take exit 28 and go west on Ann Arbor Rd. approximately 1.5 miles to Main St. Turn right (north) onto Main and go 0.8 miles to Kellogg Park, on the right (east). Admission: free. Allow 2-3 hours.



永远的玫瑰。



城堡。



美女。



抽水机?



中型冰雕的头像。可以从头像中的接缝看出,所有的原冰都是一个大小,最后垒起来的。



造型古怪的动物。



腾空的大力士。一开始我觉得这种凿空的冰雕肯定很难,后来才知道,这可能是两块冰粘在一起的。



冰雕艺术家用的是电锯,把大块冰一点点削掉。



工具。



塑造美人鱼的尾巴。



用炉子把翅膀的冰烤融化一点,然后把翅膀粘到海豚身上。



天使。



中型冰雕。



神龙见尾不见首。



百豚争流。

12/27/2002

厄瓜多尔的赤道火山 Cayambe, Ecuador

今天去了厄瓜多尔的赤道上的火山,看到了冰川。赤道火山凯扬波(Volcan Cayambe)是厄瓜多尔第三高火山,赤道上最高点。我算了算,地球是扁的,赤道那里鼓出来,到了最高的火山上,应该是站在离地球中心最远的地方了。好兴奋啊!我们的车还穿过了赤道,从南半球进入北半球。我记得看看水池里的下水漩涡有没有改变方向。好像没有。。。或者自己左右不分,搞糊涂了。下面是当天的日记。

Hotel Coraza, Otavalo, 9:15 pm

Up at 6:35 am and ready by 7:00 am. Walked in the neighborhood waiting for Safari our travel agent's car to pick us up to see the volcanoes. It was a nice morning in Quito.

Safari was 45 minutes late. Rommel is our guide, a short, smart looking guy from Cuenca. He is a 3rd year university student of touristry and his brother is a mountain guide. Rommel's English is not bad. Today we had a Land Rover. There was another traveler Cindy in the jeep. Cindy looked my age and worked in a finace firm in New York City. I thought she was an American born Chinese.

We drove around Quito to pick up food of the day and then left town, going north. On the way we stopped for gas and bread in the town Guayllabamba. I was already tired.


Rommel and the Safari Land Rover. We stopped to get gas. There was a guy with machine gun at the gas station.
我们的吉普车在加油站。居然见到有个持枪的人。

The Panamerican Highway is a very nice highway, but the cars aren't always following the lanes. Our 4WD was quite slow. We followed a truck full of bananas for a long time, and then we followed a beat-up red cross truck. There were many indigene people standing or sitting on the roadside gesturing the passing cars for money or something. These "beggers" were usually little kids of 5-8 years old. I felt really bad for them. How could they think that cars would stop on the highway to give them any money! Rommel later explained to me that this only happened around Christmas time. These indigenous people were only asking for "Christmas gift" which was just food, because they thought it was the Christmas spirit for the Christian traditions.


A rest stop by the Panamerican Highway overseeing the beautiful valley.
泛美公路的景色。


A beat-up Red Cross truck on Panamerican Highway. There were always people on the side of the highway.
高速公路上的红十字会卡车。路边经常有人在走,也有人讨钱讨饭。

We crossed the equator! There was a monument on the roadside. This monument was much less visited than the popular Mitad del Mundo moument north of Quito, and consisted of a large concrete globe, and a line on the ground marking the division of the northern and southern hemisphere. I did what everyone would do here--standing on both hemispheres cross the equator.


The equator!
站在赤道两边!

The road to Cayambe Volcano was closed so we had to take small roads through remote villages. Rommel had to stop and asked for directions several times. The roads were very bad. I was glad we had a 4WD. Eventually we entered the Ecological Reserve. The landscape of the Cayambe Valley below was breathtaking--green fields on rolling volcanic hills, big blue sky, puffy white clouds, cows, houses, people in their traditional cloth doing their traditional things, the same things they had been doing for hundreds of years. I fell in love.


The "paved" road passing through a small village.
上山的路,穿过小村庄。


A fruit hut in a village on the way up to the Reserva Ecologica Cayambe-Coca.
山村里的水果摊子。


Rose farm on the hillside. This area grow roses for export.
山边的玫瑰农场。这里的玫瑰出口的。


Reserva Ecologica Cayambe-Coca.

Our jeep went up and up and up and finally arrived at the climbing refuge. This was a building, 4600 meter they say, in the mountain for the mountaineering people to rest. This was the highest point I had ever set foot on in my life. From there we "hiked" or climbed around the refuge for about an hour to look at the glacier. I had never seen glaciers before and was stuck by the sight. Truly impressive! I wanted to go further but my companions was feeling the altitude and wanted to go down. I just climbed around the rocks and looked at the glaciers in the dense fog.


Finally, glacier! Near the refuge of Volcan Cayambe.
冰川!火山!赤道!


Volcan Cayambe glacier.
冰川!

Volcan Cayambe is an extinct vocalno. At 5790 meters, it is Ecuador's 3rd highest peak. This is the HIGHEST POINT in the world through which the equator directly passes--at about 4600 meters on the south side. When I thought about how the equator is bulged, I realized that we were actually standing at the furthest point away from the center of the earth!!!


Plants at 4600 meters on Volcan Cayambe.
高山上的植物。


Flowers at 4600 meters on Volcan Cayambe.
4600米火山上的小花。


Galcier at equator. Volcan Cayambe, Ecuador.
赤道上的火山上的冰川。


Volcan Cayambe, the furthest point away from the center of the earth. Can't see the top through the dense fog.
赤道、火山、冰川。

We met Giovanni, another guide from Safari, at the refuge. He looked very sincere and trustworthy, and we were happy to learn that he would be joining us to Cotopaxi on Sunday. Giovanni lived in New York for a year back in 1985 (in a restaurant), but regretted to have ever come back to Ecuador.

We had lunch inside the refuge. Safari prepared excellent food--potatoes, corns, bananas, onions, .... It was cold even inside the building, but being on a volcano on the equator made me happy. We met two groups of American climbers there, one group from Kentucky and the other somewhere nearby. Only a British climber stopped and chatted with us. He told us that these people would learn technical climbing with crampons and attempt to climb to the top of the vocalno the next day. I had serious doubt at these Americans.


Hiking down the road from the refuge of Cayambe Volcano.
从火山上走下坡路。


Plants and volcanic rocks on Volcan Cayambe.
山上的植物。


Plants on the hillside.
山边的植物。

The vegetation on the mountain was lovely. Fog and clouds made everything so green and fresh, yet only very short brushes were growing at this altitude. We "hiked" or walked down hill for about an hour before went back onto the jeep. When we passed through the village again, we stopped and gave a little boy on the roadsie the rest of our bread.


Sweeping landscape of Cayambe Valley.
凯扬波山谷的风景如画。


How green is Cayambe valley!


This boy came to ask for "christmas gift" and we gave him the leftover bread.
这个小男孩向我们讨礼物。我们把午餐剩余的面包都给了他。


This woman saw us giving the boy "gift", and she ran down from the hill toward us. Was she the mother of the boy? Or did she want gift for herself?
这个当地妇女见我们给男孩东西,也从山坡上跑下来,不知是也要东西,还是她是男孩的母亲。

Rommel dropped us off at Cayambe, a large city among the volcanoes on the Panamericana highway. From there we took a local bus toward Otavalo. The bus stopped constantly along the highway to pick up and drop off local passengers. It took 40 minutes, and cost $0.60 per person. Driving among snow-capped volcanos, one after another, was a spectacular sight.

At Otavalo bus stop a girl convinced me to visit her hotel. She was 19, pleasant, and a university student in Quito studying industrial engineering. She spoke fluent English because she had lived in the States for a summer. Too bad my companion wasn't in the mood to chat with strangers nor to consider her hotel. We checked into a modern hotel in town instead.

Otavalo is a very well-defined town with nice little streets, hotels and restaurants. Surrounded on all sides by beautiful mountains and volcanos, the sunset there was spectacular.

For dinner we went to Pizza Sicillian. Warm fireplace, cozy atmosphere, live musicians, and interesting people dining. I saw a young couple madly in love, a group of Ecuadorians feasting and playing cards, two Frenchmen, a group of Germans, and a group of three handsome people including a woman in a beautiful sweater and a tall local guy with long braided hair, SLR camera, hiking pants, modern gadgets, and perfect English accent--he chatted with me for a while and told me the names of all the instruments the musicians were playing.


Musicians at the pizza restaurant.
餐馆里的乐师们。

There was also a Japanese girl by herself, writing her diary. I invited the Japanese girl to our table. She spoke better Spanish than English, and told us that she was from Osaka and had been in Quayaguil for 10 months to study Spainish. I had never seen single Asian girl travelers before, and was surprised to meet two in one day. They gave me courage.

【文学城世界风情】厄瓜多尔2:赤道上的火山上的冰川,距离地心最远!

2/18/2002

Snow face


Snow face, E. Ann St., Ann Arbor, February 2002. My first winter in Michigan. I was so excited to see snow!