9/26/2005

圣地亚哥动物园 San Diego Zoo


San Diego Zoo: Gao Gao the panda.


San Diego Zoo: Flamingo.


San Diego Zoo: Koala bear


San Diego Zoo: Hippopotamus.


San Diego Zoo: Ducks and fish in hippo tank.


San Diego Zoo: Polar bear.


San Diego Zoo: Parrots.


San Diego Zoo: Crocodile.

今天早上离开了豪华旅馆,来到世界闻名的圣地亚哥动物园。我们还都是头一次来。我小时候对动物园不大感兴趣,心想也许现在能看出些名堂了。而且这里有几只大熊猫。

先是乘坐双层巴士,在整个动物园里转了一圈,大致了解院内的布局,见到了各种动物。印象最深的是在水里玩耍的北极熊。我们这样一种动物一种动物的看过来,好象是在看幻灯片,一张图是一种动物。我看不出动物的喜怒哀乐。

下 车后就在园里自己转。那些大猩猩的行为最令人不解。我觉得它们很可怜。河马最好看,它们住在玻璃水缸里,可以看到它们在水下的样子。楼上一层的水面上有 个小孩在逗河马玩,河马就向上一跳一跳的,想抓东西来,一切都好象慢动作似的。水缸里还有很多小鸭子和鱼。据说这些鱼是可以帮河马清理水缸的。我们还看了 海豹表演。一般。临走前仔细看了蛇的展览,有好几条中国的毒蛇。恐怖!另外还坐了高空缆车。

当然今天的宝贵节目是大熊猫。我自从 小时候在北京看过大熊猫之后,就再也没看过了。小时候去北京动物园,大熊猫的地方总是挤满了人,我人小看不到,偶尔挤 到前面,也看不到熊猫,只记得见过一只在睡觉的熊猫背影。所以我一直觉得熊猫没意思,不知道大家为什么都这么喜欢熊猫。前两年在网上,看到一些熊猫的照片 和新闻,才忽然觉得熊猫是世界上最可爱的动物,于是经常收集熊猫的新闻和资料。这次我们来到大熊猫的展区,也是挤满了人。先看到熊猫高高,一个人在吃竹 子。隔壁是两岁的美生,高高和白云的孩子,是第一次在美国出生的熊猫。前两个月白云又生了一个小熊猫崽,现在只能在摄像机上观看他们。起先美生还没有出 来,动物园的人把树干上摆好一些竹竿、竹叶,和一些胡萝卜。门一开,一直活泼的小熊猫窜了出来,象是美国电视里的深夜秀(Late Show)主持人那样,在观众的掌声中,兴高采烈地爬到树上,拣了几个胡萝卜吃,然后舒舒服服坐到树杈上,抓起竹竿啃起来。真是可爱呀!麦克头一次见到熊 猫,也说熊猫是世界上最可爱的动物。

这个动物园不算大,下午就逛得七七八八了,决定走人。晚上回到洛杉矶,在一间上海餐馆吃了顿饭。麦克送我去机场,结束了周末四天的节目。

9/25/2005

加州科罗拉多酒店 Hotel del Coronado


The Hotel del Coronado is a luxury hotel in the City of Coronado, just across the San Diego Bay from San Diego, California. It is located immediately behind the beach, facing the Pacific Ocean. It is the largest beach resort on the North American Pacific Coast.


Construction of the hotel began in March 1887 and was finished just 11 months later in February 1888 at the cost of one million dollars. Labor was provided largely by Chinese immigrants from San Francisco and Oakland.

The hotel was built as a premiere resort for the wealthy. It is one of the oldest and largest all-wooden buildings in California and was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977.


The hotel has hosted a variety of notable guests, including Thomas Edison, L Frank Baum, and Charles Lindbergh. There is some speculation that Wallis, Duchess of Windsor was introduced to Edward VIII at the hotel. The following presidents have stayed at the hotel: Benjamin Harrison, William McKinley, William Howard Taft, Woodrow Wilson, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Dwight D. Eisenhower, John F. Kennedy, Lyndon B. Johnson, Richard Nixon, Gerald R. Ford, Jimmy Carter, Ronald Reagan, George H. W. Bush, Bill Clinton, and George W. Bush.


Hotel del Coronado, the lobby.


A dining area in Hotel del Coronado.


A staircase of Hotel del Coronado.


Named the number one wedding destination in America by the Travel Channel, the Hotel del Coronado is a magical setting for the special day. Surrounded by sun-drenched beaches and moonlit ocean views, The Del is the perfect San Diego wedding site.


Breakfast on the balcony with oceanfront view.


Hotel del Coronado, from a balcony.


Nights at the Del.

9/23/2005 星期五

中午,麦克把我从洛杉矶机场接到,立刻上了五号高速公路向南走。我不知道去哪里,他不告诉我他的计划。我就迷迷糊糊坐在他的小跑车里,望着窗外的晴空,路上的汽车,两旁的房屋树木,不远处的太平洋,一切都是那么明亮欢悦。想到上一个星期还在阴郁的荷兰和英国,前两天还在盛夏的密西根,今天已经又回到了清爽的南加州,真有些觉得是在做梦。

过了圣地亚哥,车子开上一座高架桥,进入了科洛那多半岛(Coronado),穿过明亮的街道,来到一座壮观的旅馆前。“到了!”

这是著名的科洛那旅馆(Hotel del Coronado)。整座建筑是维多利亚式的,是加州最大的全木头建筑。最引人注目的是主建筑的圆锥形红色屋顶,稳稳当当坐在那里,尖尖的屋顶上还整整齐齐开着几排可爱的小天窗。白墙红顶,周围是高高低低的棕榈树,背后是蓝色太平洋,身穿度假夏装的人们出出进进,只觉得这里充满生机。

这旅馆肯定很贵吧?我问麦克。他笑笑说,偶尔奢侈一下也好。他很多年来一直想看这个旅馆,这个周末终于如愿以偿了。麦克说我们要在这里住三晚。

后来我在网上查到找个旅馆的资料。这座豪华旅馆昵称 Del,是北美西岸最大的沿海度假胜地(resort)。建于1887年,十一个月完工,耗资一百万元,用的是加州湾区的华人民工。很多名人富人都曾是这里的客人,如爱迪生,历届美国总统罗斯福,艾森豪威尔,肯尼迪,卡特,里根,大小布什,克林顿,等等。据说爱德华八世就是在这里遇到后来的温莎公爵夫人的。

旅馆大厅里布置得很华丽,所有天花板、墙壁、柱子、地板,阁楼,装饰,都是棕色木头的。屋顶不高,中央的大吊灯下,是大瓶的鲜花。

我们的房间在另外一座六层楼的五楼。室内装潢不算豪华。从房间和阳台上都可以看到太平洋。打开落地窗,听海浪拍岸的声音,任由海风扫进房间,感觉清爽开阔。向外望去,海滩上还正举行一个小型婚礼。我们心情都好极了。

下午在旅馆里到处逛逛。旅馆主楼有商店,泳池,疗养场,健身房,舞厅,还有几个档次不同的餐馆和酒吧。我们去了一个中档的餐厅,坐在落地玻璃前,看着海滩上的灯火人群。一餐下来,还没有点酒,帐单就近一百块钱了。我心想,那个高档餐厅还不知要多贵呢。海滩上还有一个大型的婚礼,到处都是音乐和兴高采烈的人群,熙熙攘攘的。我觉得这些人好象生活在与世隔绝的乐园,又象是在世界末日来临前的狂欢。

因为欧洲的时差还没倒过来,我回到房间倒头就睡了,睡在海浪声中,好舒服的床,好舒服的枕头,好舒服的被单。这里就是完全享受的地方,此时此地之外的事就先不去想了。


9/24/2005 星期六

一早就醒来,窗外阳光正好。懒洋洋靠在床上看书。麦克看电视里的足球赛。不想离开舒服的房间。于是打电话叫人送早餐。这还是头一次在旅馆房间里早餐呢。以前经常在电影里看到有钱人在房间早餐的情节。前几天正好看了的一本小说(A Handful of Dust),其中就特别有一段故事,讲一对夫妇要办离婚,英国法律当时需要有外遇的证明,所以虽然是妻子有了外遇,丈夫还是同意假装自己有外遇被抓。于是丈夫找了个舞女,订了旅馆房间,早上叫人送早餐,两人赶快坐在床上被单下,故意让人发现以作证据。好笑极了。虽然看到这个情节,我还是没料到送早餐的人会直接走进房间来。这时再起床已经太晚了。我只好躲在被子底下,闭着眼,不想看到那个送早餐人的表情。

早餐叫了一份鸡蛋面包加土豆丝,另一份法国面包加蜜糖,再有一壶咖啡,牛奶,橙汁等。所有的调料都是装在迷你小的瓶子里,很可爱。我们坐在阳台上,望着大海和沙滩,真觉得跟在电影里的人一样。

今天真懒,从房间到楼下,就坐到泳池旁边休息。露天泳池四周摆满了沙滩长凳,清一色的绿色垫子,坐满了晒太阳的男男女女。有的在看书,有的在晒太阳,有的在睡觉,有的在聊天。泳池里只有两个小孩在玩水。不知道周围这些人里有几个下过水的。我们也拣了两个凳子坐下,喝着冻柠茶,开始下棋玩。不远处传来一阵阵烧烤的香味。我下棋输了,就派我去买汉堡包来。在这里买东西吃饭都可以记帐,不用付现金。

太阳晒得厉害了,就去泳池里玩一玩,再去热水浴缸泡一泡。这里可以感觉到海风的凉爽。离海这么近,大家却挤在海边的泳池边晒太阳,真好笑。这里还有疗养院(spa),可以接受按摩服务。我们去问了价钱,一个小时一百块左右。在密西根的运动疗养按摩就是这个价钱,所以我想也不贵。不过麦克不愿意请男按摩师,而这里女按摩师都预约满了,这次就算了。

懒洋洋就过了一天。晚上我们打算去旅馆里的高档餐厅进餐。餐厅名叫威尔士亲王(Prince of Wales),肯定是跟着那个不爱江山爱美人的爱德华八世起名的。我们打扮得漂漂亮亮的下楼去。麦克穿了西装,我穿了一身黑色晚装,象是去参加电影里的晚会。从海边走过,见到很多人在海滩上聚会。这里真是一个接一个的晚会不止。有两三个乐队同时在不同的派对上奏乐,乐声在空旷的海面上一定可以传得很远。

餐厅很有气氛。屋顶上有一盏射灯温温柔柔的照在桌面,白色桌布上放着插了鲜花的小花瓶。侍应生都轻声漫步的。我们看了看菜单,上面只有几道菜,价钱并不可怕。听说这里的厨师都是得奖的,也许他们只能做几种拿手菜吧。我们叫了两份套餐,两杯葡萄酒,另加一份生牡蛎。我讲不出那些菜的中文名字,总之是非常精美,又好看又好吃,放到嘴里就融化的。回到旅馆房间,我还在回味每一道菜的感觉。

奢侈了两天,跟做梦一样。

9/24/2005

墨西哥边境城 Tijuana, Mexico


Tijuana, Revolution Avenue.


Tijuana Mexico-US border crossing.

在旅馆赖了两天,今天决定出门。开车往南,去墨西哥边境城提瓦那(Tijuana)看看。提瓦那是我了如指掌的地方了。我只去过两次。第一次跟妈妈去,因为忘记带护照,在海关和游客区之间来回奔走了几次,走熟了路。第二次跟朋友去下加利福尼亚半岛(Baja California)旅游,前后住了两晚,每次都找旅馆,又要去租车和还车,所以在城里又走路,又乘出租车,又搭公共汽车,又开车停车,对每条街上有什么都熟悉得不得了。麦克反而没有怎么来过。我高兴做他的导游。

车子在边境前的停车场停下。走上边境大楼,绕几个圈,过桥,就到了墨西哥。两边都没有人查证件。之后就往游客区走。经过一座行人桥,横跨跨提瓦那河。提瓦那河完全是水泥的河床,河里几乎就没有水。桥两边有很多小商贩在买纪念品,多是些村里来的女人,很多还带着孩子。每次经过她们的摊档,我都感到无比同情而无奈。

游客区在革命大道(Avenida Revolucion)上。路口有一个高大的金属拱作为标记。这条街完全是为美国游客服务的。满街都是药铺,工艺品店,酒吧咖啡厅,成人娱乐场所,还有一些餐馆。街口有给游客照相用的驴车,驴子被涂成斑马的样子。我第一次来的时候,只见过两辆驴车,还以为是新的驴子品种。现在已经每个街口都有了。这也算是提瓦那一景,明信片上都有的。另外,在街上每走几步路就会被拉客的叫住。这些人都会说英文,所有商品的标价也都是美元。我们到药店买了瓶四环素消炎药,十二块钱一百粒。消炎药在美国是要医生开放才能买的。药店里其它的花花绿绿的药可能都是美国很难买到的。我们还买了两张的墨西哥花毯子,共十美元。

经过一家商店,见到门口摆着一个纸盒子,里面放了一些豆子,标明是“跳跳豆”。果真,那些豆子一直在跳个不停。我们怀疑有古怪,把豆子抓在手里,过了一阵,豆子也开始跳。我们研究了很久也不知道原因,猜想可能是什么静电作用。(回家上网查了资料,原来这些“豆豆”里面有很小的虫子,虫子一动,豆豆就跳了。)

我们找了间餐馆坐下,叫了鸡尾酒慢慢喝,边喝边聊天。麦克心情很好,觉得终于出了国。他在美国国内尤其是南加州,总是情绪紧张,感到很大压力,出了国就很放松。他问我有没有这样的感觉。我说美国和墨西哥对我来说都是外国,反而我觉得提瓦那更加揪心,因为这里遇到的人完全没有归属感。“本地人”没有人想在这里长久,像在中国深圳那样,都只是为了赚钱或打工而来的。游客更是来寻求瞬间短暂的廉价欢愉,因为来这里消费的都是美国穷人。这个城市永远要对美国人察言观色,一般人是无法在这里生存的。上次开车来的,经过城外那些临时搭起的破旧的小屋棚,和海边的度假屋完全不能相比。我曾在革命大道上度过一个新年之夜。在金属拱下搭了个舞台,街上有一些卖食品的摊档。晚上这里就没有游客了,聚在一起的都是流浪在这里打工的人。我在墨西哥城也过过新年,那时街头人涌,非常喜庆,不是提瓦那这样的凄凉。我记得倒数的时候,金属拱上的时钟慢了好几分钟,也没人知道。

我每次来这里都非常迫切地感到人的悲哀。

麦克很气愤成人娱乐场所在拉他的客。他认为那些男人见到他身边有女伴,再向他拉客,就太不尊重了。麦克还奇怪为什么我不生气。我说这有什么好生气的,有些女人也喜欢看成人节目,而且这些人只是在工作而已,这里又不是什么道德城市。我说不如晚饭后我带你到红灯区的街上转转。

红灯区在革命大道北边的一带。这里的街道比革命大道更挤更乱,没有药铺和工艺品店,都是住家和为本地人服务的商店和饭馆,还有一些简陋的旅馆和闪着霓虹灯的娱乐场所。走过三条街,每个房门口都站着一两个打扮得很惹眼的年轻女子,也有几个上了年纪的。她们都面无表情地望着眼前的空气,街上的行人,脚下的尘土。我不忍心看她们,就低着头加快脚步。这些可怜的女孩子们,她们看着我的目光一定是非常羡慕的。我和麦克这样恩爱的走过她们面前,会不会给她们很大的打击?真希望她们早早赚够钱,找到自己的男人,离开这个无奈的地方。我知道,我以后再也不要到这里来了。

原路回去。边境那里非常非常的堵车,进入美国的车都要一辆辆检查。幸好我们走路过来。海关的X光透射仪查到我们的四环素。我们都很紧张,不知道买药是不是违法的。海关人员听说是四环素,想了一下就放我们过去了。早知道就揣兜里拿回来了。

明天就要离开旅馆了。

9/17/2005

苏格兰城堡 Hermitage Castle, Scottish Borders


Hermitage, "the chief strength of Liddesdale", must be one of the most sinister-looking castles ever built.

A vast eerie fortress at the heart of many of the bloodiest events in the history of the Borders and the scene of many a death by drowning, burning. starvation and, of course, by the sword. Many dreadful deeds were perpetrated here, and hanging over the site is a sense of hidden menace and oppressive evil. It was to this castle that Mary Queen of Scots made her famous ride to visit her future husband, the Earl of Bothwell who had been seriously injured in an encounter with Little Jock Elliot whom Bothwell was trying to apprehend.


On the way to Hermitage Castle.

From Hermitage south along the valley of Hermitage Water to Newcastleton and beyond can be seen remnants of many old peles and castles. This is largely Elliot country but the castle has been, at times, associated with the De Soulis family and with the Douglas, Dacre, Hepburn and Scott clans. The Armstrong occupied it from time to time when it was not in use by the others. In the vicinity of Hermitage have been found the remains of buildings indicating that once a sizeable township was located here.


For 400 years the awesome ruin served as the "guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain". It's history has sufficient intrigue, romance and violence to make the legend of the castle's builder fighting a giant wearing impregnable amour seem rather superfluous. The proximity of Hermitage Castle to the English border made it a particular prize for both countries. Even the building of it by the King's butler, Sir Nicholas de Soules in about 1240, almost brought the nations to the brink of war. It was disputed territory for much of its history. This can be seen in the great strength of the castle, which reflects both the wealth of its owners and its strategic position. It is the best of the medieval border castles to survive. Despite some re-building at the wall-heads in the 19th century, most of what we see is a caslte that has evolved and grown over half a millennium.


It stands actually in a smaller valley off the main dale, and even without its roof and with its interior in ruins, it retains a most grim and depressing atmosphere: visitors are not surprised to learn that one of its earliest owners, a lord named de Soulis, was reputedly a magician who had sold his soul to the Devil, and was punished for his crimes by being boiled alive in a great cauldron.


Hermitage Castle is a stone multi-towered castle, the bleak surroundings give it an extraordinary atmosphere. Fragments of the early castle lie at the centre of the building, round arched doorways, large ashlar blocks in the spiral stairs give its position away. Built up to become the main central keep, with towers added at each corner, it became the largest and strongest castle on the Border. The east and west sides of the towers are joined at the top, by an arched curtain, so that a wooden hoarding could encompass the castle.






This tower is rather mundanely referred to as the Kichen tower, in fact it was the main lordly residence of the 15th century castle. The central tower could not provide sufficient space for the earls of Douglas. A new tower was built at each of the angles of the castle to provide work rooms, storage space and domestic apartments. The south-east tower houses the well. The north-east tower is the castle's prison where many a border reiver will have suffered from his craft.


Little remains of this 13th C. chapel. Its foundations have been excavated, along with some window arches. This was most likely a private chapel associated with Hermitage Castle and an old wooden manor house which has subsequently been lost. The surrounding banks and ditches are part of the castle's defences.




Hermitage Castle and Chapel.


Scottish Borders.


Mid-autumn moon seen from our car on the highway of England.

Reference:
http://www.homeatfirst.com/a-may04-.htm
http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/scotland/roxburghshire/hermatige.html
http://www.castleuk.net/castle_lists_scotland/79/hermitagecastle.htm
http://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/hawick/hermitagecastle/
http://www.mysteriousbritain.co.uk/majorsites/hermitage.html
http://www.aboutscotland.com/hermitage.html

9/16/2005

爱丁堡 Edinburgh

Scotland Travelogue, Photo Album


Edinburgh, Capital of Scotland.


Edinburgh on a sunny afternoon.


Edinburgh Castle from Princes Street Gardens.


A sunny afternoon in Edinburgh, Scotland.


The Royal Mile, Edinburgh.


The Royal Mile, Edinburgh.


Edinburgh.


Edinburgh map.


Arthur's Seat, Edinburgh.


Beautiful sunset in Edinburgh, Scotland.


One of the closes off the Royal Mile of Edinburgh. Here houses the Writer's Museum, "collections relating to the lives and works of Scotland's great writers, particularly Burns, Scott and Stevenson".


Statue of David Hume (1711-1776), a Scottish philosopher and historian, on the Royal Mile of Edinburgh.


One of many of Edinburgh's closes on a rainy afternoon.


The building on the left is said to be the ugliest building in Edinburgh.


Edinburgh building (a high school?) at night.


Rainbow over Edinburgh beach at sunest.


Edinburgh beach.


Edinburgh beach.

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